Romain Kremer.

fashion
1/20/2010

What to Watch - Ponystep's Pick of Paris Menswear.


by Kristopher Houser


On the eve of the Parisian F/W 10 Men’s shows, Ponystep reflects on Spring / Summer, to navigate our point of interest for the coming season. Namely, we are looking at the stable of young designers who garner only additional mentions, versus the major headlines reserved for Paris’ fashion elite.

It is hard not to consider, while writing this feature, Anna Wintour’s bold statements to the French media criticising their lack of support when it comes to young, upcoming designers. In all fairness to Wintour, the below mentioned talent, more often than not, are being worn by editors far before they get their due ink (digital or otherwise). So in the spirit of paying-it-forward below is a “cheat-sheet” of designers to watch – and wear – as they are quietly shaping the streets with their distinct point(s)-of-view.



ROMAIN KREMER

Colour blocking, cut-outs, and monochromatic looks. Kubric for cotton?

Masked for most of the show in some capacity, the models, showed us exactly how to wear fun, layered looks often in lycra and synthetic fabrications. Kremer’s bold use of skin and bursts of colour worked well with the otherwise almost entirely monochrome collection.



THOMAS ENGEL HART

Ripped, torn, studded and tailored? Thomas Engel Hart could easily be described as the bastard offspring of Vivienne Westwood and Helmut Lang - and happily draws influences from both.

Hart showed us a cinematic version of an eccentric set of characters. By using a seemingly “alternative” sense of being, he offers up forward thinking ideas with a strong sense of individuality and identity. One might even say his patterned short-suits, with shrunken lapels, have helped influence the shapes in Florence / Milan this season.



EK THONGPRASERT

Vested boys, fabric less knees and short suits. Boy scout meets Buffalo? 

Thongprasert collection was highly personal. It evoked memories of my brother, loading up his backpack with various bits, headed out into the hills for an adventure. Well that is if he did it in a tonal, earthy, well tailored short suit with matching loafers - only to return to our mother with a well placed / designed slash and ripped knees.



OLIVIER BORDE

Soft pallets, washed cottons and side crotched pants. Who doesn’t love a white tailored shirt with a black collar? 

At times its easy to be overwhelmed by this collection's cross stitching, unkempt nature and those side closures on the trousers; but much like anything, after a thorough review, I settle into Borde’s attempt. I find the colour-palette fun, light and fresh, and the there is something vaguely whimsical about the collection as a whole. Sophisticated basics paired with street-centric style – an 'educated' combination. 



TILLMAN LAUTERBAUCH

Flannel, printed denims and casual tailoring. Interesting ideas from the house of Lauterbauch. The over-riding idea that cannot go unrecognized in Lauterbauch’s work is the use of colour. From start to finish the collection offered up exactly the kind of muted, faded, subtle aesthetic many in the industry aspire to. Otherwise, jeans teamed with jersey jackets and simple silhouettes merely add to the mix.  



GOSHA RUBCHINSKY

Turquoise tiered boys, sweaters, and vests that nod to Rodarte’s recent men’s collection - yet all alongside printed scarves? 

It’s not easy to classify Rubchinsky’s collection, well-styled active wear with a dirty charm? Non-the-less there is a quality reminiscent of a young Kim Jones, unquestionably different, but perhaps born from the same spirit. A little smarter, a little eerie, and completely compelling.



DAMIR DOMA

Volume, colour, scale – very close to perfect! Every piece a 'must-have'. There are few times when one can watch a show of an upcoming designer and find little to criticise. 

Watching a Damir Doma show is like listening to Mozart; from start to finish you feel beauty. The ideas translated in this collection were strong and considered from the outset and Doma, having set out with such a strong statement of intent, is sure to take us somewhere equally extreme with the next collection. 





www.romainkremer.com

www.thomasengelhart.com

www.ekthongprasert.be

http://olivierbordegarderobe.blogspot.com

www.damirdoma.com




Photos: Tetsuharu Kubota.

Styling: Lotta Volkova Adam.

Hair: Armand Fauquet.

Stylist Assistant: Anelor T.

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