A/W 10 Menswear Collections.

fashion
3/9/2010

An Illustrated look at Modern Mens' Fashions.


by Kristopher Houser


Now that the European men's cycle is over, we can reflect on the MAJORS of the menswear shows - whether that be an Englishman showing in Milan, a Belgian in Paris or even a national showing in his / her own country this is Ponystep's illustrated look at some of our favorite elements from the FW/10 mens season. Illustrations by Richard Kilroy.



Alexander McQueen:

Both eery and brilliant, this collection collided ideas. Showing printed suits with square cut leather jackets - its as if a swinging Italy met a dark medieval sensibility. Just when you thought things were getting too serious McQueen surprised us all, as he often did, this time with a splash of paint.



Bottega Veneta: 

Younger and street-wise?  Denim, cropped jackets and purple drawstring suits - is this the modern answer to a youthful look? At times sloppy at others perfectly crisp the overall message was lost somewhere between mod and mall. With all said and done Tomas Maier's collection was completely wearable but perhaps less aspirational.



Burberry Prorsum: 

Its without question this season was all about outwear but its Baileys use of scale that was most impressive. With every exit I was left noting the shape and proportion. Simple but fresh, the material and color assortments were winning combinations.



Dunhill:

Heritage and adventure; Kim Jones thumb-mark was subtle, but easily found amidst the wool suits.  For many, his mix of traditional and gentleman were best communicated via accessories; they were strong, refined, clever and warm. Who doesn't need a flask adhered to their pinstripe belt-loop?



Jean Paul Gaultier:

Athletic and ambitious; it takes no fight to find Gaultier's reference this season. The designer mixes luxurious fabrics with a sporty sensibility. It is at once fun, frivolous yet at times sharp and formal - shorts and skirts shown with boxing gloves and top hats - what's not to love?



Jil Sander: 

A new shape, mixing geometry and fashion. Simons integration of thin-weight turtlenecks and puffer jackets were not surprising but it was his introduction of overlay jacket, with an s-curve at the double breast and his stone-shaped patchwork sewn into segments in addition to being used as enclosures that offered a fresh look at phrase "perfectly tailored".


Prada: 

A Camel dream. Perfect coats; fresh for the season shown with cropped and loose-neck sweaters. Its was if Ms. Prada was dressing her vision of the hurried boy; as the palette darkened to greys and chocolates we saw moments of pale pairings and sharp spring-like accents, a nice mix with lots of options.


Raf Simons:

It was as if Simons was not satisfied with a sublimely cut jacket but had to push beyond and play with tradition as a whole. Styling nylon over double breasted suits with metal snaps, trenches with a high and low fall and plaided looks with the perfect introduction of color; red velcro. As per usual, the designer not only took his personal collection to a soaring new level, but perhaps the entire men's season as a whole.


KH.



www.alexandermcqueen.com

www.bottegaveneta.com

www.burberry.com

www.dunhill.com

www.jeanpaulgaultier.com

www.jilsander.com

www.prada.com

www.rafsimons.com

www.richardkilroy.com

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