JM: Hi Matthew! So, you have been in business for 7 years now. It’s a long time for an independent store… congratulations!

MM: Thanks. Yes, we have been very lucky.  We had support from lots of people in the industry and very loyal customers. God, 7 years ago we never saw ourselves lasting for so long. I did know there was an issue for us out there, but I never imagined there was such an important market.

JM: I personally really love the store. The layout, the stairs, the windows, it feels kind of awkward, yet very comfortable.

MM: Yes, but you know the space had been empty for ages when we found it? The great thing is that the rent, given the awkwardness of the space, is relatively low for the area. The space works for us because it suits our business needs - it wouldn’t suit a traditional store. It was a travel agent before we took the space!

JM: You have achieved something very unique on Savile Row. It’s such a pleasurable experience shopping here. There is never any pressure to buy. You feel free to browse…

MM: We never ever wanted that in the store. We wanted a relaxed atmosphere with nice staff that are knowledgeable and passionate. They are not desperate to sell you something. For us, the store is a platform for new designers.  We want to take the time to explain who they are, what they do and where they come from. It’s classic, old-fashioned service, but approached in a modern way, I guess.

JM: On the subject of classicism, the B line seems to be going from strength to strength. Tell us more about it.

MM: Well, it launched in S/S07. It’s still a very personal line. The team consists of designers Kirk and I, creative/stylist Jason Hughes, accessories Husam el Odeh and millinery collaboration with Christine Bec. 

JM: I enjoyed your show this season. Was it important for you to show during London Fashion Week? 

MM: We see ourselves as a London brand, the store is based in London and the essence of the collection has always had an English ideology and references very English things. It made perfect sense for us to show in London. The only other opportunity is Paris and I certainly don't feel we are ready for that. London is where we have the widest reputation.

JM: You mentioned that there is no real ‘concept’ behind the collection, but what was the general inspiration? Do the other lines you stock influence the B line?

MM: Originally the idea was to create a collection of fashion basics for men entitled 'missing pieces', so we thought about creating a capsule wardrobe that consisted of the items that men are always searching for and although this is still the main concept, the collection has grown. This meant we had to have a theme to each collection. The ss09 collection was inspired by Temple Island, the island on the Thames at Richmond that they row to during the Henley regatta. We looked at images from the forties of the regatta and the straw boater hats, picnic blanket checks and high waisted pleated trousers. This formed the backbone of the collection. The designers that we work with are the reason we created the line, but we certainly do not take inspiration from them. We are very lucky to work with so much talent, but we buy each designer on their particular strengths. This meant it left a gap in the shop for a more basic garment, which was the initial reason for creating the collection.

JM: It is nice to see a store that offers differing volumes. With designers like Hans Madsen for instance, you are not following the skinny jeans dictature…

MM: The only way to survive is to offer something different, and we never wanted to follow a trend; actually we thought maybe we could create one by finding designers for the store that have something different to offer. And there is a true customer/designer loyalty. For instance, people come here specifically to buy Bernhard Wilhelm, or Peter Jensen. It is great that we have nothing else in the store like Bernhard or nothing like Peter. And when we started with Damir Doma, we had no product like it, so suddenly a new Damir Doma customer appeared that would have probably never shopped with us before. It is all about constantly offering something new.

JM: Pineal Eye opened just before you did, its very sad that it closed. Where do you think they went wrong? I personally remember the heydays, when it was so hot to own something from the Pineal Eye…

MM: Yes, Pineal Eye was 10 years old when they closed. The good thing about them is that they opened in the late nineties, when people were spending money. It was a whole new concept  ‘the edgy boutique. You felt intimidated shopping there!!! It felt like you were buying into a special club, and I think it just lost that. Then they started working with brands like Dior Homme, and the people who were the core of the Pineal Eye started to move away – people like Nicola (Formichetti). It lost its identity and then they did something I never thought they would; they started changing brands. They started buying labels like Dior and Givenchy, and their customer base was alienated. I still never understand why they did that. JM: Yeah, I remember the cutting edge selection, it was mad, but then I guess they decided to play safe. 

MM: Exactly, and I guess, as they probably sold Dior more than anything else in the store, they probably got the taste for it and thought maybe they could make some money… they then found themselves being led by the consumer rather than the other way around.Kokon to Zai stayed true to their aesthetic, they have always stocked the same brands, or at least the same spirit of brands for club kids. I have big respect for that.

JM: Was your move to Savile Row a calculated move, or more of a chance opportunity?

MM: Well, when we were on Conduit Street, we were looking at Savile Row and thinking:  'God, it would be nice to be there!'‘ The street has so much heritage - its reputation is probably bigger than the actual street. Some of the Houses are a bit tired, but the street has got so much energy, and the great thing is some of the tailors are intrigued by us and come in! They really like the store. They would, in fact, rather have people like us moving into the street than Abercrombie and Fitch!

JM: it is funny you mention A&F, I was about to ask what you think…what the hell is that all about??? The beefy topless shop assistants having their photo taken with lobotomized customers?

MM: I think it goes against all the rules…it is amazing how they make it work - you see the homoerotic Bruce Weber campaigns, the models working in the shop, and yet the consumer is EVERYONE - from rich Chelsea kids to Essex boys.

JM: Do you think a new breed of male customer emerged since you opened.

MM: Yes, definitely. Before we opened, men’s fashion was about buying jeans and t-shirts, it was the only thing that was sold to men (unless you consider the extreme opposite - cutting edge stuff from Pineal Eye). Then this new consumer appeared. He wanted a bit more than that, and we could offer him a choice.  That’s why we are now taken a bit more seriously. It does not matter if the customer is a young gay guy or a middle age architect; he is a person who needs to find the designer that works for him. You match them up; you then have a loyal customer. 

JM: And finally, who is the b man?

MM: A constant reference and inspiration for the collection is David Bowie, through all his different periods but mainly late 70's early 80's..........he is the ultimate b man.

JMM