Kiki Georgiou - Hi Stuart. How's Madrid? With the SS09 collection over, do you feel more relaxed and ready to take in your new city and surroundings?

Stuart Vevers – Yes! My biggest challenge is to improve my Spanish. I've not had lessons for a while because of getting ready for the Paris presentation last month. My first lesson since the summer break is tomorrow. I'd like to explore more of Spain too. I've been to Barcelona once since I arrived. I went to Seville to DJ with Hazel Robinson a few weeks ago, which was a lot of fun. 

KG - How much has the city itself influenced you and how central is Madrid and Spain to the brand itself and this collection in particular?

SV – It’s important. For me, it gives Loewe a real point of difference and the fact that it is the only Spanish brand at this level is a real opportunity. We have been inspired by iconic, strong Spanish women like Paloma Picasso, Gala Dali. It’s about a boldness, an opulence that somehow feels very Loewe.

KG - Was taking charge of a house that was established in 1846 intimidating? If so, how did you deal with it? Did you decide to delve into its archives or start afresh?

SV - Of course there's a certain pressure, but that's healthy, it’s what gets you out of bed in the morning. But mostly I see it as an opportunity. There aren't many fashion houses with over 160 years of heritage. We have a great archive, craftsmanship that's been handed down from generation to generation. It’s quite unique. Generally we have a rule that it’s fine to look to the past or the archive, just as long as we make it work for right now.

KG - You have already proven that you can take an old 'institution', establish its new identity and move it forward, with Mulberry. How different was Loewe to Mulberry and in what way? 

SV - I guess there are a few similarities but many differences too. For me, Loewe is about a very pulled-together look, groomed, polished, strict but sexy. I call it ‘provocative classicism’.

KG - Mulberry is so 'British' in both its core identity and design influences. Would you say Loewe is its Spanish equivalent in that aspect?

SV - Yes, even more so Loewe is Spain. Loewe is where you go when you want buy someone a gift in Spain. It’s something that people are proud of here. The fact that the quality has never been compromised has kept the house strong.

KG - Do you feel your experience and subsequent success at Mulberry was a plus for your new appointment?

SV - I think so, I'm very proud of what we achieved at Mulberry, so I hope so. I've now worked in the four main fashion capitals, Calvin Klein in N.Y., Bottega Veneta in Milan, Luella and Mulberry in London and Givenchy and Louis Vuitton in Paris, so that international experience was important too I think. Having worked for the LVMH group, which owns Loewe, twice previously was probably a factor too. But I've not asked to be honest, maybe I should.

KG - What's your plan in moving the brand forward? Will it continue as an accessories-focused luxury label or is the clothing line slowly taking centre stage?

SV – It’s a balance, one can't live without the other. Accessories are still a focus, the real authority and know-how of the house. But the clothing collections are very important and not an insignificant part of the actual business too. We are in the process of renewing all the collections, including menswear, which is a collection I'm very excited about too. Shoes, jewelry, packaging, store design, campaigns…the list goes on!

KG – You’ve called Loewe a 'proper' house. What do you mean by that and is that an important part of your vision for its future?

SV – Absolutely, it’s what I touched on earlier. It’s what the house is and I want to bring that out, embrace it. I like that it feels aristocratic and somewhat bourgeois, but with a sense of something else going on too, some depth, an earthy sexuality. That's where the provocative classicism comes in. Proper pieces like a silk scarf, a proper handbag, a trench, a cocktail dress, things that you can invest in but with iconic cultural references that give it an edge; whether it’s Kim Basinger in a trench coat in “9 ½ weeks” or Paloma Picasso in a Helmut Newton photograph with her arms full of bangles.

KG - The SS09 collection seemed focused on the high quality of the materials, from the butter-soft suede trench to the ostrich zip-front skirt. How important is it to maintain and improve on the luxury aspect of the brand whilst keeping it current?

SV - It should be a given. Loewe is luxury. But it’s important that it’s paired with creativity and handled respectfully. It’s about taking the craftsmanship and know-how of the house and pushing the boundaries, making everything we do for the 21st century.

KG - Spain seemed present in the collection but not in an obvious way. The ruffles as well as the naval details were there but the collection seemed to have, I hope it's safe to say, a lightness and sense of humour too. Was this your intention?

SV – It’s an attitude and a feeling that should surround everything we do. I think it’s interesting that as a 'foreigner' I am exploring the Spanish roots and not being turned off by certain things, as they are often new to me. I'm avoiding obvious clichés, but embracing others. It’s funny though; dots have been in both collections so far! Sometimes you do it without realizing.

KG - And can we please talk about those shoes! They were incredible and again, added an element of fun to a very chic and luxurious look. 

SV - Glad you liked them! Well, it was about taking elements that felt, again, very 'proper', the form, the strong heel wrapped in metal, the metal toe cap,s and at the same time being very spontaneous with our fabrications. That shoe order took days to do. There were hundreds of combinations. It was fun though.

KG - You resurrected the 'Amazone' tote for this collection. Can we presume that it will become an important part of all future collections?

SV – Definitely, I love that bag! It was designed in 1975, the year that Franco died and it represented a new time, freedom. It was the prototype for modern bags, the first soft bag, something Loewe is still known for. It feels relevant for today with a real investment quality. After all, if it’s lasted 33 years then it’s certainly going to have longevity in your wardrobe. It’s one of those pieces that look cool on a cool woman and elegant on an elegant woman, it’s ageless. My goal is to go back to the original version and bring back its soul. Make it famous, it deserves it! 

KG - And finally Stuart, how is your Spanish progressing? Describe your life in Spain in a few Spanish words for us, por favor!

SV - Oh dear! Here it goes: “Trabajo muy duro y disfruto a tope". 

(Our Google language search came up with this gem: “And I enjoy working very hard to stop”. Spanish lessons for Ponystep!)  

KG.