Jean-Charles De Castelbajac: Hi… So - you have to ask me questions… I have no imagination!

Jean-Marc Masala: I doubt it! Ok, so – why did you wait so long before opening a store in London?

JCDC: Well, quite simply, I didn’t have the money. I have spent 30 years of my life doing things on my own. I had help along the way from the likes of Iceberg and Max Mara, but the real financial backing only came in 2001 (from British company Marchpole). It was like a breath of fresh air, but it meant I had to let go a little. When I was company director, it was hard. It has been know for me to sell off my Basquiat paintings just to get us through the month. Then I met the guys at Marchpole, it was amazing. A company big enough to give me the support I needed, but with a real human dimension. They really believe in me!

JM: Your shop is SO obviously Pop Art inspired. Its sure to be a success in London, they love that here!

JCDC: We live in a pop world. I, like my good friend, the late Franco Moschino, always viewed the world slightly differently. You could say almost visionary, or avant garde… My vision has always stayed with me, and now we are hitting an era that is really ready for it. Really mine!

JM: Its funny you say that – I really feel that London today has a lot in common with 80’s Paris.

JCDC: It’s exciting here now. I have always been a little in love with London; I have always considered myself a little bit ‘Anglo-Saxon’ – a bit crazy, rock and roll! I have always had such a good time here, with good friends Malcolm (McLaren), and all the designers I met a long time ago, Zandra Rhodes, Ossie Clark etc… These people have made me dream so much – be it fashion, art, music. I always found I have more of an identity here, even now, with the like of Gavin Turk, David Shrigley and Banksy all doing great, inspiring things. I feel very lucky to have found this shop, located on the corner of Savile Row. It has always been an extravagant shop (it was formerly Voyage). There is such a strong fashion history attached to Savile Row. I like the independence of these old businesses. It was the 90’s that saw this industry change the most. It became very corporate, with empires like Gucci and Prada really beginning to monopolise.

JM: So you had a bit of a break then, right?

JCDC: I stopped showing for 3 years!!! And it’s funny because it was then that the style magazines really picked up on me again…

JM: …you were cool again?

JCDC: EXACTLY!!! And then all the cool kids started borrowing my stuff. People you would never expect, like Dizzee Rascal. They all started calling me JCDC – it’s so cute! I was never really into Hip-Hop before, but in the 90’s (my ‘quieter’ period), people like LL Cool J were buying my stuff, while the fashion pack weren’t that interested. In NYC it was crazy – all the rappers were wearing my Felix the Cat designs, it was mad! The 90’s saw me go from US Vogue, to Ghetto Fabulous! Then I came over here for the V&A exhibition, and all the kids were calling me JCDC – I was overwhelmed!

JM: So London is definitely the place for you then?

JCDC: The scene is so fresh here. I have been dressing M.I.A for 3 years now, Santogold wants to wear my clothes, I am working on a project with Ebony Bones, Crystal Castles and although slightly different, Rufus Wainright. I love him. He will be attending the launch with us. He has been working with my wife (actress and former ‘Miss France’ Mareva Galanter) on her album. They duet on one of the tracks!

JM: You must be very proud of her…?

JCDC: Very proud… Music is very important to both of us. I really feel more playful now, creatively. I want to play and have a good time. I am starting with the shop. We did our recruitment at CSM. I didn’t want ‘regular’ sales assistants; I needed people who care about fashion, and music and art. We employed 4 amazing kids!

JM: Sounds great! Now, tell me a little bit more about your collaboration. I know you worked with Keith Harring, Warhol etc…

JCDC: I have always said, that if I were a musician, then I would be in a band, rather than on my own.  I was surrounded by young American artists like Basquiat and Harring, and was always influenced by them in some way. When I drew with a chalk yesterday (the store has a huge blackboard covered in JCDC’s signature drawings), I suddenly remembered that Keith taught me how to draw. I spent hours drawing with Keith, and later with my kids. I am blessed with having met some amazing people throughout my life, to have worked with them, and achieved something. I think my main quality is to be able to approach people and tell them, ‘I love what you do’.

JM: It often works like that in London.

JCDC: My real break came in ’96-’97. I was teaching at CSM and in Vienna. I was in a creative environment, but not really coping. I felt a little lost. Then, in ’97, I am asked to dress the Pope. Amazing. Suddenly 1 million kids are wearing my t-shirts. It made me think. I needed to make the most of my assets, of my vision. I got lots of press for the Teddy Bear coat that Madonna famously wore, but I needed to go back to my Pop Art roots. Create pop things for the people. It’s taken me 10 years to finally feel myself again, to open up and be happy again.

JM: And you will be using the same colours I take it? I love them!

JCDC: Yeah, the colours are the same, but the clothes are more ‘appropriate’ to the public. My clothes are not big ‘works of art’ to wear, they are clothes. I am working on an art project, which I would like to show in London in September. So, I am looking for a gallery to show my works as an artist. I want to celebrate multiplicity!

JM: Tell me a little about Ko & Co.

JCDC: It was actually my mother’s idea! It was a place that was meant to be different, a new shopping experience.

JM: It was the first ‘Concept Store’.

JCDC: Yes, and then I opened it up to Jeremy Scott. It was the first place in Paris you could find Jeremy Scott. It was also the first place Andre ever showed his work... Look at them now!


Jean-Charles de Castelbajac – 50-51 Conduit Street.

www.jc-de-castelbajac.com